A thrilling taste of India on The Maltese Islands.
From vibrant meat and veggie dishes to vegan and gluten free, Trishna really has got something special everyone.
I’ve been in and out of restaurants on this island religiously for five years. Make that twenty if you count my pre-Gozo existence. To put it mildly, I’ve seen establishments come and go. I’ve seen some try really hard and succeed and some that are sadly, and most definitely doomed to fail from the start.
Days gone by, I even ran my own restaurant which happened to pick up Time Out’s Best Restaurant Of The Year twice in a row. I know the struggle. I can still feel the struggle. It’s not easy.
The winning formula of a winning restaurant might look uncomplicated on paper, but in reality, it’s one of the most difficult businesses to get right. Most could use Google (or ChatGPT for those in the know) to learn what elements are required to make a restaurant succeed, but actually doing it, is a whole new kettle of fish.
I recently met a family who was going ‘into the business’ and had never run a restaurant before. They had spent an awful lot of money, and dare I say even got some elements right – but I have a gut feeling we won’t be seeing them in a year or two. Not indicative of my recent visit to the Indian restaurant Trishna, one of the newest restaurants in Gozo.
First impressions (super important) are – WOW. This place has most certainly been designed by someone who knows what they are doing. From the logo through to the furniture, this has been truly thought about.
The earthy, ethnic interior is fitting but not obvious and it certainly does not say ‘high street curry house’, more like a chic Soho eatery. Wherever your eyes end up, warm, low-lit hues of brown, tan, orange, and yellow suggest classic Indian spices. Polished wooden tables and chairs and oversized rattan ceiling lights match cabinets and cupboard doors whilst surrounded by tirades of hanging ferns. It’s truly a beautifully designed space. Tasteful quirky décor scatters the surface and a smattering of lush green tropical plants adorn the statement wall complete with a relaxing water fountain. There is refinement, depth, and texture and it radiates modern Eastern culture.
Chef Puneet heads the kitchen alongside Chef Amirul and Chef Debojyoti Das by his side. They are most certainly aligned as they work harmoniously together and he presents a thrilling menu with his take on familiar dishes we all know a version of and love.
And without a doubt, all of that translates to not only the plate but the Trishna experience.
Ready to champion his authentic Indian fare at any moment, he likens it to that of a 5-star hotel in India. I can’t compare as I haven’t yet been, but there is no doubt he is an outstanding young talent, confident in his food, and ability and brimming with knowledge. I learned so much from him while chatting about the ingredients and the process. I made a joke and told him he shouldn’t share his secrets, to which his response was simply; “I don’t mind sharing what I know, nobody can make food like me.”
He is not wrong.
Every good Indian meal starts with a papadum appetizer and if you are anything like me, the pickles are just as important. The crisp, peppery bites of loveliness were joyously accompanied by chunky lime, rough-cut mango, and whole chilies pickles. All dressed in courageously hot sauces full of flavour and heat. In fact there was enough to curl your toes – just the way I like it. My husband on the other hand is Italian and is still ‘learning’ his spices. He went for a milder version, as this was kindly asked by the chef before we ordered.
We fancied meat and meat-free options and there are plenty of both to choose from. The Supreme Chicken Skewers were cooked to perfection, and the succulent Golden Fried Masala Prawns fried in light, crispy breadcrumbs and Chaat Masala were out of this world.
We also opted for Chicken Jalfrezi, a classic dish beautifully cooked, with tender and juicy chunks of chicken in a dark but fragrant tomato sauce, studded with stir-fried peppers and onions. Also, for the veggie option, we went for Chana Masala – large ripe chickpeas in an aromatic, morish sauce. This feast was accompanied by the fluffiest Saffron rice I have ever tasted (big true statement) alongside the most delicious garlic and chili naan which was also a luscious feast of colour, culture, and fireworks and I would eat it all over again.
I love Indian food. I also love going out to eat Indian food. Whether the weather is hot or cold. Trishna provides a cozy haven when it’s chilly, and will no doubt be a super escape from the heat in the summer.
Trishna means thirst, desire, or craving. It’s the next day and I am already craving more. I suspect this Indian restaurant will not be going anywhere anytime soon.
Author: Andrea Britton
Andrea is the Creative Director and Editor at GITH. Tweet her at @andreabritton or send stories to hello@gozointhehouse.com.
